readers, it's the moment you have been waiting for. the moment you have been hitting refresh every five minutes for the past week for. the moment you were born to experience. the moment your parents envisioned many years ago right before they made sweet sweet love which eventually resulted in the birth of you, with your very eyes, which are reading this blog now. that's right. i am going to write about
pigall's.
when i heard that pigall's was closing at the end of february, i knew i had to get there no matter what kind of a hit my budget was going to take. restaurant gossip isn't my thing so hit up google if you are really interested in the reasons why the restaurant closed. all i knew was that it was the only four star restaurant in cincinnati, in ohio, and in a big chunk of the midwest. and it was going to close in a matter of weeks. and i had never been.
the minute i heard the news in early february, i called avani and we quickly made reservations for thursday night, february 26. we haggled with
liberal foodie ("i don't really want to go that bad") and her husband ("i might have to work late") until they finally agreed to pencil us into their busy schedule of making the best chili in cincinnati, making the best pizza in cincinnati, making the best chicken stock in cincinnati, and other such time consuming affairs. we were set.

the last menu ever at pigall's
then i planned my budget. i have a pretty generous $190/month eating out budget, so i ate out as cheaply and as little as i could for most of the month. by the time february 26 came around, i still had $129 left in my eating out budget.
next i had to figure out what i wanted to eat. lucky for me,
kate and
graham went the week before i did so i studied their blogs to figure out what i was going to order. graham's meal sounded perfect and i decided i wanted everything he had, unless something else really jumped out at me. not so lucky for me, i had been to
the nose to tail dinner at
jeanro bistro just a few days before pigall's, so i was feeling burned out on multi-course meals and did not really want to do the five course. i was hoping the others would not want to either, since you have to do what the table wants.
finally the day came. we got all dressed up and zipped down to 4th street. when we walked in, the hostess took our coats and we were seated. the first thing i noticed is how calm and understated the restaurant seemed. it didn't look like what i had expected. i was thinking there would be big chandeliers, lots of paintings, flowery wallpaper. something kind of over the top. but the walls were beige, the lights were big and round and dim, and there were only a few pieces of art here and there. on one wall were lighted boxes set into the walls with little vintage ceramic figures of pigs and children. it was kind of odd, but charming.

the interior of the restaurant
we sat down and our server william came over. william was awesome and we all loved him. we chatted with him and found out he had been working at pigall's for fifteen years. LF asked him what he was going to do when the restaurant closed. "i don't know," he said. "i've been here for so long." then i realized that there probably really is nowhere else for him to work. i am sure the servers at pigall's made a pretty good living. where else are you going to make tips like that in cincinnati? i was sad for him.
william was really fun and totally made us feel at home. it was interesting because there were so many people our age in the restaurant. i had expected a much older crowd. but i think that a lot of people were probably there for the same reason we were - to experience the restaurant before it closed. they weren't regulars.
we decided on the three course meal since that meant that we got a wide variety of food options (with the five course, it's a set menu). we made our selections and ordered cocktails and wine. then we just relaxed into the meal.
soon our amuse bouche arrived. we got three little treats. the first was beet soup. beets again! twice in one week! i wondered what to do. beets literally make me gag. a few days before, at the nose to tail dinner, i had eaten the beet first and it had bitten me in the ass. i took photos to stall. pretty soon everyone else at the table was finishing the course and i hadn't even started.
"what should i eat first?" i asked. "the beet soup," they all replied. well here goes nothing, i thought, and i tipped the soup quickly into my mouth.
what a surprise. i HATE beets. they literally always, without fail, initiate my gag reflex. this beet soup did not do that. it was a miracle. it was cold, creamy, smooth, mild. it tasted slightly purple, if that even makes sense as a flavor, but none of that disgusting beet gaggy throat closing nastiness. i stared into my empty cup and marveled at it.
onto the salmon. perfectly poached and topped with egg salad. again, a blast from the past after the nose to tail dinner. but this egg salad could not have been more different. in it was a super creamy sauce which tasted like a blend of cream cheese and sour cream. the richness of the sauce combined with the fatty, melty salmon, and the smooth, rich egg was perfect. the flavors were deep and full but also sharp. it all went perfectly together.
last was the sweet and sour cabbage (? i think) filled phyllo dumpling. the phyllo was amazing. flaky and crisp, not even a bit soft. so light. the filling was... well i don't remember. the phyllo was so awesome. it crunched and fell to bits in my mouth.

my bouche was amused
throughout this i had forgotten that i was at the table with other people. i looked up and realized they were staring me down like vultures. jealously they watched me swallow the last bits of my phyllo. they had been done for hours (well, minutes). suckas!
we drank, we chatted. the plates drifted off and soon enough more drifted back on the table. it was appetizer time. our choices:
- liz: tuna tartare with pineapple and celery remoulade, bayonne ham, and local quail egg
- LF: escargots bourguignon style, soft polenta with medley of mushroom, confit garlic, and baby onions
- the husband: quail confit with pistachios and chutney, winter vegetable slaw, and salad medley
- avani: also escargots
before the meal we had debated whether we should stick to our usual practice of not ordering the same thing as anyone else at the table so we can share and try different things. but we were concerned about portion sizes and we did not want to feel like we had to share anything if we really liked it, since we would not have the opportunity to ever have it again. thus the double escargots order. as it turns out, we had nothing to worry about because the portions were huge.

tuna tartare
i had read about the tuna tartare on graham's blog ("my favorite dish of the meal") and i knew i had to have it. well it was the right choice. it was perfectly red, fresh, plump, and rich. the pineapple's sweetness and the creamy remoulade balanced it out perfectly. on top, there was a dried pineapple that was the most amazing thing. it was sweet, spicy, mesquitey. this dish was awesome.

quail
i tried the escargots, which prior to the nose to tail dinner would probably have kind of freaked me out. but after eating lamb brains and heart and thymus, snail seemed straight up ordinary. it was ok but it seemed a little rubbery to me, and not that flavorful. the sauce was really good though, and the polenta was (mom, stop reading) the best polenta i have ever had. cheesy and smooth and light and rich.

escargots
i wish i could tell you about the quail because i am pretty sure i tasted it but i was so focused on my tuna that i can't remember what it was like.
we floated through this course and through our bottle of wonderful wine. the sommelier was great. we had told him that we wanted a bottle of red that would go with a variety of dishes, and gave him a price range of $40-60. he came out with the bottle pictured below and it was delicious. i could not get over this wine. it was delicious and so smooth it was almost velvety. i took a four session wine tasting class back in december and i have not had a really good bottle of wine since then. let me tell you, that class was worth every penny because i so appreciated this wine.

wine
plates were cleared, we drank and chatted, and more plates arrived. the main course. it was so fun because the plates were brought, and then a bunch of people came up with little dishes of sauces and poured them on the dishes. here's what we ordered:
- liz: elk with chocolate demi, apple barley root vegetables, mustard lentil flan, fall chutney
- LF: rack of lamb, shallot red wine sauce, dauphinois, bleu cheese flan, braised turnips, lentil mushroom ragout
- the husband: skatefish wing with light vinegar sauce, creamy spinach and celery root, horseradish potatoes, trumpet royal
- avani: sea scallops, anise lobster cream sauce, napa cabbage with pumpkin couscous, and piopini mushrooms
again i took a tip from my food twin graham and asked to order the elk off the five course. william and the chef were totally accommodating. the elk was also totally accommodating. i ordered it medium rare and it was juicy and flavorful. it tasted like a really well marbled grass fed steak, but with a slightly milder flavor. the fall chutney turned out to be a thick jamlike cherry concoction which was perfect with the elk and the slight hint of bitter chocolate. the mustard flan was creamy and thick and the bits of lentil were toothsome. the flavors together were more than the sum of their parts and the textures were so interesting and fun. it was delicious.

elk
i tasted all of the other dishes but again, i was so obsessed with what i was eating that i did not pay them too much attention. LF's lamb was wonderful. the skatefish and the scallops were both a little too salty, but cooked perfectly. and there is very little in this world as satisfying as a big fat perfectly pan seared scallop. crunchy and slightly caramelized on the outside, smooth and cool on the inside. mmmmm.

scallops
we finished our wine and wanted more. we asked for the sommelier, and when he arrived we learned that the restaurant was out of the wine we had just had (i guess that is the risk you take going two days before they close forever), so we asked for another recommendation. "oh, i have the perfect burgundy," he said. "how much is it," i asked. not tactful, i know, but i'm on a budget. the sommelier didn't blink. in fact, he smiled and winked. "i can give it to you for $8 a glass." now that is my kind of price.

lamb
the wine came and it was an absolute delight. i mean it was just amazing. the first wine had been so smooth and complex. the burgundy was like an adventure. i know this sounds cheesy, and maybe i had just had too much to drink at this point already, but it was fascinating. when the wine came, it smelled slightly dank and cinnamony. LF took a sip of my wine and handed it back. i smelled again and it was completely different. i smelled vanilla and cloves and spice. i took a sip. i smelled it again. much more spicy now. i became obsessed with tasting things and then sipping and then smelling and each time it smelled different. i was transfixed by my wine.
LF and avani laughed at me, until avani started sipping and smelling. "oh my god, liz is right! it keeps changing!" she exclaimed. i waved down the sommelier again and told him what was going on. he laughed and explained that this is what "old world wine" does: it changes as the air mixes with it. apparently wines made in europe are this way and this is normal. it was amazing and wonderful and unlike any wine experience i had ever had.
miraculously the desserts appeared on the table. we ordered as follows:
- liz: assortment of domestic and imported cheeses
- LF: warm bittersweet chocolate tart with pumpkin ice cream and bourbon caramel sauce
- the husband: milk chocolate and macadamia truffle tart with macadamia whipped cream
- avani: oatmeal-dark chocolate torte with christian moerlein barbarossa ice cream
i am not really a sweets person so i knew the cheese plate was for me. was i ever right. oh my god. never have i had such a spread of amazing cheeses before me. each one was more delicous than the last. there was a sheep's milk, a blue, a cheddarlike cow's milk cheese, a melty buttery something or other on a spoon, and a goat cheese that was almost like cheesecake. and on the sides and bottom were little fruit compotes and sauces to go with them. i tasted every combination possible and they were all so different and so good.

cheese
five cheeses and three fruit sauces. add that into my wine sniffing and tasting and i kept myself busy. i have no idea what was going on at the rest of the table. by the time i looked up, the others were almost finished. i had a tiny bite of something chocolatey and it was good. but i could give up chocolate for the rest of my life and probably not even know the difference. without cheese... i don't think i could survive.
we sipped on our wine and chatted and chatted. william brought us some cookies and chocolates to snack on. our meal had started at 7 and by about 10 we were really tired. we finally asked for the check and it was the icing on the cake: the wine bottle did not appear on the bill. instead, we had been charged for four glasses of wine (we had only ordered three).
pigall's isn't the kind of place that is going to fuck up your bill. clearly this was a gift. i am guessing they were probably not going to be able to do anything with the wine in two days, so why not just let us have it since we had enjoyed it so much? as we marveled over this, one more gift arrived: little grapefruit almond pound cakes wrapped up in cellophane and tied with a bow.
it was a meal which surpassed all
but one in my life. the food was wonderful. the service was extremely professional but also friendly. the atmosphere was soothing. the wine was delicious.
but aside from all the sensory delights, i think the people are what made this meal really special. i went with good friends who were fun and hilarious and loved the meal as much as i did. william was funny and accommodating. the sommelier was gracious. and on top of that, we saw a few people we knew at the restaurant. chrissy and erin from
cincinnati imports, one of avani's coworkers, LF's friend from her cooking club. we all got up and chatted with people throughout the meal and everyone was in a really good mood.
it's like we all knew it was going to be our last (and for many of us, only) time at pigall's so we all just decided to enjoy ourselves to the fullest. we were sharing an experience that we would never have again. but what a perfect experience to have, even if it was just once.